Neither I have the desire to write this article, nor does it fall into the categories I usually cover on my blog. So why I am writing this? Well, let me explain. I heard about this “Scandinavian Scarf” thing recently, and it stirred a pang in my chest, how something that is part of our culture (as a Punjabi) is taken away from us, and how can we just sit back and let it go. Fortunately, the backlash made by Indians abroad made the Bipty’s founder, Natalia Ohanesian, issued an apology.
“The fashion aesthetic my teammate was fawning over in that video is clearly not European. It is important to note my teammate was truly curious where this fashion aesthetic is from and repeatedly asked that question multiple times through the video, she did not intend to discredit. We are very sorry to the South Asian communities that were offended.”
It’s always either an employee or a driver who takes the blame😅.
You can read more about this in great length by this Elle’s article written by Annam Imandar, mine is not limited to just Dupatta.
Since an apology has already been made, what is the fuss about? The fuss hasn’t been settled, and it likely never will be, and we should be well aware that for a long time many Indian artistries have been stolen by the West. I am very stringent with the word stolen. It appears to be just fashion rebranding, but in reality, it is more than that. It is a belief that they still have their rights over their former colonies. I am not saying Natalia is a pro-colonization or stuff, but the idea is much more inherited than directed.
Why should we keep talking about such matters?
It is important to understand that clearing a fuss once is not enough. It will be repeated in future, since many of the Indian concepts and cultural artifacts have been wrongfully patented by the Western countries. If we keep our mouth shut about it, we lose more than that. Thomas Babington Macaulay had written in length abusing Indian cultures and practices while the same Europeans are repackaging our culture as their own. It is not just wrong, but unethical to a great degree. Recently, Bill Gates called India a lab to experiment “things“, we are just a lab rat for a “great western philanthropist” it seems.
In recent years we have seen many such examples, starting with Yoga itself; the practice that deemed as Satanic, became Christian all of a sudden.
Christian Yoga
Beyond the Christian or something absurdly called Beer Yoga, Yoga Pant is also an example of (wrongly) appropriation of Indian cultural practice. Yoga has never been a medium of voyeurism in the name of fitness but attaining God(s) (Jesus wasn’t clearly one of them) or his/her wisdom. Or in Buddhism, reaching your inner self.
It is important since our Indian youtubers are not talking about it in degrees. Even when the addresses the issues, they address in Hindi language. English is a world language, not Hindi. It is important to address these issues in English, a language that World understands. Popular political commentator Sham Sharma made a video on Yoga appropriation, but it’s old and needs a revisit.
But the practice of adapting without due credits are not limited to Yoga or a Dupatta. Kolhapuri Chappals were used by Parada in Milan Fashion week without giving its due credit properly.
Kolhapuri Chappals
Your sandal was not an “inspiration“, but a Kolhapuri chappals (sandal) in itself. The damage has been done, and they (Prada) arrived in India for face saving.
Gothic Swing or a Jhula?
Yet another one. I am not going into description this time since it appears to be designed by independent creator. But we are clearly seeing a pattern here of wrongful cultural appropriation.
Souvenir Jhola? (Not controversial though)
I want to clear my position that my issue is not with taking Indian thing and selling it on exuberant prices. Like this cheap “jhola” that you most likely get for 50 INR, sold at the price tag of $50 USD. It is funny, it is ridiculously stupid, but it is not stealing. It is capitalism, some may have problem with that, I am not one of them.
What is Dupatta?
Dupatta or Chunni serves both fashion and symbolic purposes. In the pure fashion sense: It adorns the Kurti (top wear), can be matched with the salwar (bottom wear), or could have a translucent look with a fancy lace bordering it, any idea that works for you. In a symbolic sense, it serves as a symbol of modesty, respect, and cultural identity.
Beyond that, Hindu and Sikhs women cover their head while visiting temples (Hindu temples or Gurudwara). Dupatta is an accessory that has been serving the purpose.
Conclusion
As far as this Scandinavian Scarf controversy is concerned, the crux of the matter is that the dupatta has symbolic value among Indians that cannot be repackaged as Scandinavian. If you really want to add another accessory to your wardrobe, at least use its true name.
I also touched on the subject of cultural appropriation and why we should bring it up more often. If we keep bringing up these issues, any confusion among indie designers (Gothic Swing) will not be there, and I am optimistic for the change in their behavior. The idea isn’t to stop Westerners from using our culture, they’re free to do so, as long as they’re not erasing our heritage in the process. We believe in the idea of the World is one family, but we should be treated as a respective community of that one world.
